Our Kickstarter project just launched!

We’ve done our punch-downs during the last few days and now we’re ready to put it into barrel. Our Kickstarter trailer is ready. Just in time for Thanksgiving!

Kickstarter is a web site to help projects find fans and raise money. Hopefully it will help us spread the word about our documentary. The idea is that people can pledge a certain amount of money to any project that they believe in. If enough people contribute and the fund-raising goal is reached, the money is transfered to the entrepreneurs (that’s us!). If the goal is not reached, the entrepreneurs don’t get any money and the ones who pledged money don’t lose a dime. It’s an all-or-nothing scenario.

We set our fund-raising goal at 1000$. That bit of extra money would help us to get out to the wine country a little more. More money would help with expenses like the renting of a car and the purchase of extra audio/video equipment. Quite expectedly, we busted our initial budget for this project a long time ago so we are very open to outside investment…

If you like our project, help us out, and back us up!

Posted in project evolution | Leave a comment

Taking a stance on biodynamics

During our research phase, we quickly stumbled upon biodynamics. There are many California natural wine producers who claim to use some biodynamic techniques, or who are even certified by Demeter, the international certification body for biodynamic agriculture.

Here is a short description of biodynamics taken from a Wall Street Journal article:

Biodynamics is a system of organic agriculture based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, the German theosophist, specifically on a series of lectures he delivered to farmers in 1924. It uses many of the principles of organic farming—no pesticides or chemical fertilizers—but goes further, relying on practices like planting and harvesting according to solar and lunar cycles and combating pests such as moths and rabbits by scattering the ashes of their dead brethren.

In short, biodynamics is not science but rather a mix of experience and belief. Stuart Smith, a veteran winegrower in Napa, has an unequivocal perspective on Steiner:

His books, writings and lectures should be catalogued under “science fiction” because there is not a scintilla of truth in any of his writings.

Indeed, there is no scientific proof of the benefits of biodynamics.

This raised the question as to whether or not we should introduce biodynamic wine producers in our project. Conclusion: we decided to leave it out as much as we could. And here is why.

If most natural wine producers would be certified biodynamic then making a documentary on natural wine would necessitate to introduce biodynamics since it would be an all-rallying characteristic. However, although not an exception, only some are actually certified. The Demeter biodynamics certification is not a characteristic of natural wine.

In addition to that, making a documentary is about telling a story from a particular perspective. We care about science, and we care about organic and sustainable farming, a kind of agriculture which minimizes resource waste and has a concern for nature. We also find that it is a characteristic of natural wine. Indeed, almost all natural wine producers use this kind of farming (whether or not they claim to use biodynamic practices). In consequence, we will be happy to emphasize the importance of organic and sustainable farming, leaving science fiction aside.

This reasoning is reflected in the selection of the wineries we have been to. So far we have not visited a Demeter-certified winery. And when the winemaker or the vineyard manager would bring up the topic of biodynamics, the focus was on organic farming, e.g. the absence of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. That is, the sound portion of biodynamics, not the portion about the cow horns or the moon.

Although we do not support biodynamics, we are not waging a war against it. We just want to portray the natural wine movement from our perspective with no intention to distort reality.

Posted in biodynamics, natural wine, project evolution | Leave a comment

A visit to Broc Cellars

Right after the Donkey and Goat winery, we went to see Chris Brockway, the man behind the one-man operation at Broc Cellars.

Chris was really nice and came off as really committed to his wines. We tasted some of his skin-fermented Roussanne as well as a white blend of Chard/Roussanne/Picpoul.

He was pumping some juice into barrels so we got a few pictures of that. Then we interviewed him just outside the winery, with barrels in the background. Good wines, good answers, good footage. Thanks very much indeed.

We left with two bottles that we are itching to open up… Martin has been raving about the Carignan (made with carbonic maceration) ever since he had his first taste of it at Arlequin Wine Merchant.

Posted in interview, winery | Leave a comment

Natural Wine is a Halloween Costume

Martin and I were walking the streets of Berkeley on the night of Halloween. We were not trying to scare the kids from behind the bushes, we were just coming back from the wineries we had gone to that day. And it struck me that wine might be a little bit like a Halloween costume.

Some kids — or their parents — will choose to go to a store and buy a complete costume, something already made, the whole shebang. The costume will usually be well made and appealing. These kids will be noticed because their outfit is pretty. Their costume will be a nice replica of whoever they chose to go as. Further, according to the price the kids — or the parents — are willing to pay, the look of the costume will improve.

Other kids will choose to build their outfit from scratch. These kids will make it up, stitch things together, and figure out a way to emulate whatever they want to go as. Their costume is not a perfect replica of a well-known movie character but rather an interpretation of that character based on whatever they had at hand when making the costume. It will probably be easy to recognize the raw materials behind the costume. And according to the creativity and the effort the kids put into it, the end result will improve.

The store-bought costume might be more appealing from a very objective point of view. But the home-made one is telling more of a story. First off, you get to guess the costume. And then you get to enjoy whatever creative quirks went into the making of it. It’s more real.

Maybe natural wine is a home-made Halloween costume. Vying for attention against the store-bought perfect-looking ensembles.

Posted in metaphor, natural wine | Leave a comment

A visit to A Donkey and Goat

Last Sunday we headed out to Berkeley to visit the A Donkey and Goat winery. We had heard good things about these guys so we were quite happy to finally meet them. The Donkey and Goat is owned by Jared and Tracey Brandt. Their manifesto on winemaking is a beautiful read, and that was the best proof for us that they fit into our project.

We got there around 10 am. The winery had a moderately slow day, pressing some Chardonnay and Grenache. Jared Brandt showed us around and filled us in on what he and the two interns were up to. We tasted some good wine mid-fermentation and took loads of pictures.

Then Jared sat down to interview for us and we think we got some good footage. At this point, our questions are getting more specific with the aim of plugging holes in the overall message that we want to convey in our documentary. We’re definitely out of the research phase and getting more and more into the storytelling phase now.

The day went very well. Many thanks to Jared and Tracey.

Also, Martin will actually join the Donkey and Goat crew for some early-morning picking on Tuesday. They will be headed to North West Sonoma, near Mendocino. I can’t wait to see the footage from that!

Posted in interview, winery | Leave a comment

A stop @ Parea Wine Bar

Tonight we stopped @ Parea Wine Bar, on our way back from a spoken word event on Valencia St. The place was simple, modest and quite what we were looking for. We very much liked the ambiance. Much better than the 4 cheeses we had.

Here is the story about the wines we had:

Domaine Boissieu Gamay 2007 (red)

  • pepper and spices on the nose
  • too much alcohol
  • 3/5

Charles Branger, Muscadet, Loire 2008 (white)

  • very light, very acid
  • apples, waterish
  • 2/5
Posted in San Francisco, wine tasting | Leave a comment

Spending money @ BarBambino

Yesterday night was at BarBambino, another restaurant which participated in the natural wine week. Located on the 16th, near Mission St., this place was modern, Italian, clean and classy, in a neighborhood which does not afford that same description. Bonus: it was really close to our own place.

When I say close, I mean that I could connect my iPhone to our home wifi with a reception of 3 out of 3 bars. Easy to picture ourselves having a snack at this place now and then, if it weren’t that pricey. For instance, Matt paid 16$ to receive 7 small pieces of ravioli in the middle of a large immaculate plate. They wanted to make sure we would take a dessert we thought. But hey, was it good? It sure was. And so was my hot fudge brownie, with some attention to details: it had 2 strings of fudge arranged to mimic the strings on a small squared Christmas box of ice cream.

All in all, that BarBambino turned out as a good venue to discuss the documentary story line over a nice dinner with some new wine. Matt and I had been working during the afternoon, separately, on a draft for what would be the content of our documentary. So we cheered, exchanged ideas, talked about some scenes we shot, relevant responses from the people we interviewed. In other words, we kind of built the road on which our story will drive on.

We ended up with a mental merge of the two scenarios, which we will write down probably today — and take the opportunity to update our outdated About page with a proper synopsis.

Here are the wines we had:

Domaine LaFleur, Savagnin, 2008 (white)

  • hay, herbaceous, barn
  • very nice silk texture, full of apples on the finish, fresh
  • 4/5. A pleasure! (disclaimer: I’m a fan of that varietal, so typical from Jura!)

San Fereolo Valdiba, Dolcetto di Dogliani, Piedmont, 2007 (red)

  • biodynamic farming
  • aromas of rubber and rubber alcohol, which is unpleasant
  • unbalanced, tannins apart, simplistic, diluted
  • 2/5. A 10$-glass which we finished but really, just to be polite
Posted in San Francisco, wine tasting | Leave a comment

A visit to Renaissance

We went to Renaissance last Tuesday. They’re a huge estate in the Sierra Foothills, down the road from Clos Saron. They’ve decreased their production quite a bit in recent years and turned into more of a boutique winery. Nevertheless, the territory occupied by the vineyard is the largest we’ve seen so far. On top of it, next to their Syrah, the site offers very nice vistas overlooking the Sierras.

Shahar gave us a tour of the magnificent vineyards where hopefully we shot some good pictures. After which we met with Shawn, the winemaker. Renaissance uses native yeasts. They do not filter their reds. And they let most of their wines age on lees. We toured the winery and got to taste from the barrel a lot of the wine that will be bottled at the end of this year. We also tasted some special wines that will be released much later.

Thanks a lot to Shawn and Shahar.

Posted in interview, winery | Leave a comment

A visit to Clos Saron

We went to Clos Saron last Monday. Clos Saron is a vineyard and a winery located in the Sierra Foothills. They make mostly Pinot noir from vines that are own-rooted, which is quite rare.

The owner-winemaker Gideon Beinstock was very generous and open to share his views on viticulture and winemaking with us. The farming of his vines is truly organic, with an emphasis on caring for the whole ecosystem. His vineyards don’t look prim and proper like some do in Napa. They are small lots, surrounded by groves and ponds. The vineyard is full of weeds.  And an occasional tree breaks up the rows.

It’s easy to see that Gideon’s wine is really a labor of love. We brought back two bottles that we are eager to pop open. And we’re very happy with the footage we accumulated on that day. Thanks a lot to Clos Saron.

Posted in interview, winery | 2 Comments

A visit to Calera Wine Company

Last Saturday we drove South towards Hollister, where we paid a visit to the Calera Wine Company. Up in San Benito County, near Monterey Bay. Calera is the only grape grower in the Mount Harlan  appellation. That appellation was established according to their request back in 1990.

We spent most of the day with the owner-winemaker Josh Jensen. He was very generous of his time and took us around his handful of vineyards, all distributed around the top of a limestone mountain. We interviewed him bit by bit in different spots around the vineyards. We got to see the gravity-flow winery. Towards the end, we got to taste most, if not all, of the wine produced from the Mount Harlan vineyards.

It was a good day for us. Thanks a lot to Josh!

Posted in interview, winery | Leave a comment